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On the cover
7 (2014)
Tunnelling Towards Hope

28 February - 6 March 2014

Ukraine History

A Stronghold of Rulers and Rebels

With the recent death toll jumping to nearly 100 and 1,000 injured, Hrushevskoho Street, one of the strongholds of EuroMaidans three-month-long protests, made headlines around the globe. It was here, on 19 January the countrys stand against government corruption, abuse of power, and the violation of human rights turned from peaceful protest to all-out revolution. Having witnessed much over the years, Hrushevskoho is a street with a history, and not only care of recent days.


Ukraine Today
Acelebrity using their status and intelligence to influence public views and opinion is rarely seen in modern society, even less so in Ukraine. Here, the majority of celebs use their time, effort, and money to enhance or further their career rather than put their name to something that can do good for others. However, as EuroMaidan intensifies, some are making themselves heard and they fall either side of the EuroMaidan divide.
It used to be that when rebellion and revolution occurred, the intellectual, creative, and spiritual elite would be front and centre.


Ukrainian Culture

When Walls Can Talk

People have been writing on walls since the dawn of civilisation, we call it graffiti, and ranges from simple written words to elaborate wall paintings. Sometimes it is merely the creator wanting to leave his or her mark; sometimes there is an underlying social or political reason. And it is due to the latter that graffiti has exploded across Kyiv in recent months. Anti dictator messages aside, we peel back a few layers of paint to look at graffiti in the city in general.


VIP Tourism

Talking Travel With Ukraines Hairdressing Legend

Vyacheslav Dudenko is that rare creature: a famous Ukrainian hairdresser. The owner of the D2 salon chain, hes an experienced globe hopper, so we sat down with him to get some insights into travel as Ukraine heads off for its summer break. Dudenko is currently busy preparing a new hairstyle collection, which is to say a portfolio of models wearing different looks  D2 is the only salon in Ukraine that changes its portrait photos every season. (Note to female readers: He says curls are going to be in vogue this season.) But the salon guru, 47, is still making time to take some trips and of course he travels a lot on account of his work, as hes a member of the InterCoiffure World Congress. Often he hits the road with his wife Iryna and their 12 year old son.

In the past I used to travel to Ukrainian resorts and I always got depressed by the down-market service and up-market prices. I just dont see the point of staying in such places. Once we stayed in a hotel where the housekeeper warned my family to close the curtains because someone could peep in and steal our luggage. That was in Crimea. He also says that in many domestic hotels youd think the staff owes money to the guests, so assiduously do they avoid them.
Recently the Dudenkos went to Brazil on an InterCoiffure junket. We visited the Amazon and went on a crocodile-hunting expedition. Theres little infrastructure but the prices are rather high. The catering staff was all indigenous people and they were kind and positive, Dudenko says. Sao Paolo was a surprise. The city has 22 million residents and the youth is very progressive. Id thought the place is all about palm trees and monkeys.
The Maldives impressed him too. I was frightened at the very beginning when I got to the island. Everything was locked in by water and people lived in shacks. That country, a heavenly archipelago in the Indian Ocean, lives off its profits from tourism, so the service is excellent. Its to the point where service people use different roads from the guests, so as not to get in the way. The Maldives are for family people or lovers, because there are no discos or party spots. And theyre perfect for scuba-diving. A couple of Germans we met left the island completely white because they were under water 24 hours a day, he says. Two things you wont find there are lots of Russians and cheap booze, as its a Muslim country.
You find the strangest things there, he says. You cant even look at the presidential palace: Im frightened to even think what would happen if you tried to take a photo of it. The Maldives are a place of contrasts. The indigenous people live in poverty and someone who manages to get a job in tourism is a god.

Malta Needs Its Knights
Maltas also been on the Dudenko family itinerary. Malta is okay, Dudenko says, but nothing special. There was good service at reasonable prices, but I was frustrated that they dont make much of the history of the Knights of Malta there. There are no worthwhile excursions, no decent museums. Theres just a couple of miserable little statues. I think Malta is in the wrong business. They could have made a fortune off that history.
Dudenko doesnt even remember all the countries hes been too, but one place that stands out for him is Japan. That country already lives in the future, he says with admiration. Almost everything is perfect there. Even the trees are spaced out precisely, as if the design were planned on paper.
What about Ukraine? As a proud native, Dudenko regrets that his country isnt trying to attract people. Why on Earth dont we create a cult of Ukrainian history? Why do we go abroad? Were no worse than anyone else. We could have built a natural museum in Chornobyl and called it the Museum of Human Stupidity and gotten huge sums of money from that. Unfortunately, Dudenkos a trendsetter in hair design, not in tourism.

Ksenia Karpenko

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    Ukraine Truth
    Rights We Didnt Know We Had

    Throughout EuroMaidan much has been made of Ukrainians making a stand for their rights. What exactly those rights are were never clearly defined. Ukraine ratified the Universal Declaration of Human Rights in 1952. The first article of the Declaration states all human beings are born free and equal in dignity and rights, they are endowed with reason and conscience, and should act towards one another in a spirit of brotherhood. The ousted and overthrown Ukrainian government showed to the world they dont understand the meaning of these words.

    Kyiv Culture

    Pulling Strings
    Located on Hrushevskoho Street the epicentre of EuroMaidan violence, home to battles, blazes and barricades childrens favourite the Academic Puppet Theatre had to shut down in February. Nevertheless, it is getting ready to reopen this March with a renewed repertoire to bring some laughter back to a scene of tragedy. Operating (not manipulating) puppets is a subtle art that can make kids laugh and adults cry. Whats On meets Mykola Petrenko, art director of the Theatre, to learn more about those who pull the strings behind the show.


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