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On the cover
7 (2014)
Tunnelling Towards Hope

28 February - 6 March 2014

Ukraine History

A Stronghold of Rulers and Rebels

With the recent death toll jumping to nearly 100 and 1,000 injured, Hrushevskoho Street, one of the strongholds of EuroMaidans three-month-long protests, made headlines around the globe. It was here, on 19 January the countrys stand against government corruption, abuse of power, and the violation of human rights turned from peaceful protest to all-out revolution. Having witnessed much over the years, Hrushevskoho is a street with a history, and not only care of recent days.


Ukraine Today
Acelebrity using their status and intelligence to influence public views and opinion is rarely seen in modern society, even less so in Ukraine. Here, the majority of celebs use their time, effort, and money to enhance or further their career rather than put their name to something that can do good for others. However, as EuroMaidan intensifies, some are making themselves heard and they fall either side of the EuroMaidan divide.
It used to be that when rebellion and revolution occurred, the intellectual, creative, and spiritual elite would be front and centre.


Ukrainian Culture

When Walls Can Talk

People have been writing on walls since the dawn of civilisation, we call it graffiti, and ranges from simple written words to elaborate wall paintings. Sometimes it is merely the creator wanting to leave his or her mark; sometimes there is an underlying social or political reason. And it is due to the latter that graffiti has exploded across Kyiv in recent months. Anti dictator messages aside, we peel back a few layers of paint to look at graffiti in the city in general.


Ukraine Travel

A Taste of Chernihiv

In the time of Kievan Rus, Chernihiv was a heavyweight. The capital of the most northern region in Ukraine no longer shares equal billing with the countrys more prominent cities, however it is possibly because of this it retains many early medieval monuments and an air of laid-back provincial charm. And what goes better with a casual atmosphere, and summer, than beer? The locally brewed Chernigivske is popular right across Ukraine. Whats On visits the city of beer and churches.

The first mention of Chernihiv in the annals of history dates back to 864, so in addition to beer there are countless sites and stories to draw the tourists in. From the Middle Ages, turf warfare between the rulers of Kievan Rus, the Cossacks battling the Mongol Empires Golden Horde, the Red Army liberating the city from the Nazis and later gaining independence from Soviets, is cast in the stones of Chernihivs architecture. The citys must-see list follows.

Getting To Know Chernihiv
The name Chernihiv is likely to originate from the name of local king Chorniy, whose daughter, according to legend, jumped from the window of the fortress to avoid being enslaved by the kings enemies. Others say Chernihiv might mean Chorniy Lis (Black Forest), as the city is surrounded by dense forest. Despite its long history and the fact it received Magdeburg Rights in 1623, the city is relatively young, with the status of city bestowed on Chernihiv only in 1932. Today, some 292,000 people call the city home.
Located just 140 kilometres from Kyiv (two to three hours by bus), Chernihiv is an ideal day-trip destination as you can see everything you want quickly and get back home in time for dinner.

Must-See Spots
In the southern part of the city there is a concentration of old churches. The first to see is the National Architecture Reservation Chernihiv Starodavniy (Perobrazhenska 1). Here tourists can find up to 50 historical structures that saw the city make the list of historic cities of Ukraine in third place in 1946, following Kyiv and Lviv. The best of the architectural ensemble include Spaso-Preobrazhenska Church founded in 1036 by Volodymyr the Greats son King Mstislav Volodymyrovych, the 12th century Boris and Hleb Cathedral now used as the Museum of History, and the Collegium the first higher education institution of the Hetman-ruled Left Bank Ukraine constructed in 1700. Chernihiv Starodavniy is also known as Chernihiv Fortress as it was used as a defensive structure from the 7th century. Thats why in addition to the religious structures, various ramparts and ancient military equipment, such as cannons, can be found here.
A little bit further southwest, youll find St Catherine Church, built in 1696, to celebrate the heroism the Cossacks and Hetman Yakov Lyzogub showed during an attack on a Turkish fortress on the Azov Sea. The church features the best traits of the so-called Cossack Renaissance architectural style (1718th centuries), and although it was extensively damaged during World War II, reconstruction has brought it back to life.
Travelling north from here youll pass the snow-white building of the Chernihiv Philharmonia and get to Pyatnitska Church (Pyatnitska 1) situated near the vast Red Square. Built at the end of the 12th century, the church was destroyed during World War II and only rebuilt in 1962. Now the church is used as a convent.
From here, well go southwest crossing Red Square up to the Black Grave Burial Mound (at the intersection of Knyazya Chornoho and Tikhaya streets), raised most probably in the 10th century. In the 19th century, archaeologists unearthed two male skeletons there and presume they belong to King Chorniy and one of his relatives.
Further south youll get to Yeletskiy Uspenskiy Monastery (Knyazya Chornoho Street), one of the first and richest monasteries of Kievan Rus built in the 12th century. The monastery represents the beautiful Ukrainian Baroque style and occupies a large park-like setting.
Going in the same direction youll get to Boldina Hora Park which holds another beautiful Church the St Elijah Church and the Anthony Caves a four-level cave complex excavated in the 11th century probably by Anthony Pecherskiy. The priest founded a monastery here. In total, there are 350 metres of tunnels in the caves. In the 17th century, Trinity Cathedral (Tolstoho 90) was built nearby the caves. Near the cathedral, Vvedenska Refectory Church has been standing since 1677. There are two more burial mounds situated in this area: Bezimenniy and Hulbyshche dating back to the 10th century. The size of the swords and armour found in the mounds state the warriors buried here were gigantic; especially considering the average height of a man at that time didnt exceed 90 100 centimetres, the warrior found with a sword in his grave had to be at least 215 centimetres tall.
All those churches may lead to you working up a thirst, making the Chernihiv Brewery Desna (Instrumentalna 20) where the famous beer is made, the perfect final destination. Today, the brewery produces nine kinds of Chernigiv beer. While in Chernihiv, you might want to book a tour to the factory to see how the beer is made. For more information call the brewerys hotline 0 -800 -504- 0050.

Get to Chernihiv from Kyiv...
by car its 149km on the M01 and will take approximately 2 hours
by bus a bus leaves from metros Chernihivska and Vokzalna every hour
by train theres a passing train (054K) that goes from Kyiv St Petersburg, which will take approxiamtely 2 hours and 30 minutes. Or the direct variant (880L) Kyiv Chernihiv, takes 3 hours and 30 minutes

by Vadym Mishkoriz

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    Ukraine Truth
    Rights We Didnt Know We Had

    Throughout EuroMaidan much has been made of Ukrainians making a stand for their rights. What exactly those rights are were never clearly defined. Ukraine ratified the Universal Declaration of Human Rights in 1952. The first article of the Declaration states all human beings are born free and equal in dignity and rights, they are endowed with reason and conscience, and should act towards one another in a spirit of brotherhood. The ousted and overthrown Ukrainian government showed to the world they dont understand the meaning of these words.

    Kyiv Culture

    Pulling Strings
    Located on Hrushevskoho Street the epicentre of EuroMaidan violence, home to battles, blazes and barricades childrens favourite the Academic Puppet Theatre had to shut down in February. Nevertheless, it is getting ready to reopen this March with a renewed repertoire to bring some laughter back to a scene of tragedy. Operating (not manipulating) puppets is a subtle art that can make kids laugh and adults cry. Whats On meets Mykola Petrenko, art director of the Theatre, to learn more about those who pull the strings behind the show.


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